How dealers try to keep your loan (and how that can cost you)
Buying at the dealership is convenient: they’ll often offer on-the-spot financing, manufacturer promotional APRs, and “one-stop” paperwork. But convenience sometimes comes with hidden costs: dealer interest markups, conditional rebates that require dealer financing, add-on fees, and risky “spot delivery” or yo-yo financing practices that can leave buyers stuck
Common dealership financing tactics (the ones to watch)
Dealer markups (also called the “dealer reserve”)
Dealers usually submit your credit application to one or more lenders and get a “buy rate” from the lender. The dealer can legally add a markup above that buy rate and keep the difference (commonly called dealer reserve). This raises your APR above the lender’s base offer. The markup is legal in many places but can vary widely and has been the subject of enforcement actions and regulatory scrutiny.
“0% APR” or low-APR promotions that require dealer/captive financing
Many ads advertise “0% APR for 60 months” or similar, but the offer is typically for highly qualified buyers and may require financing through the manufacturer’s captive lender. The fine print often says “for qualified buyers” and “must finance through [captured lender].” If you don’t qualify for that program, the dealer may instead push you to accept a higher-rate loan plus a “rebate trade-off” that reduces cash incentives but increases your financing cost. (Many dealer disclosures that list monthly payment per $1,000 financed and “qualified buyers” language.)
Spot delivery and “yo-yo” financing
Spot delivery (driving the car off before final lender approval) is marketed as convenience but enables “yo-yo” scams: the dealer later claims financing fell through and pressures you to accept higher-rate financing or return the car. FTC and other agencies have highlighted yo-yo abuses and taken enforcement action. Avoid signing anything that leaves loan terms open, and be especially cautious if you’re offered a spot delivery without a final, signed loan contract.
Add-ons and pack-fees added after the sale
After you agree on a price, the F&I desk may add services — such as extended warranties, GAP insurance, VIN etching, fabric protection, service contracts, and “market adjustment” fees — which can increase the financed amount. Some are useful, some are overpriced or redundant (especially if you already have coverage). Ask for itemized, written disclosures and decline anything you don’t want.
Bait-and-switch monthly-payment focus
Salespeople sometimes steer negotiations around monthly payments (which can hide long terms or high rates). A low monthly payment might mean a 72–84 month loan, which increases total interest paid. Negotiate on the purchase price and the APR separately.
Pros and cons: dealer financing vs outside financing (credit union)
Pros of dealer financing
- Convenience — one stop to buy and finance.
- Access to manufacturer promotions (0% APR, cash rebates) that may be available only with dealer/captive financing.
- May be faster for buyers with imperfect credit — dealers often work many lenders.
Cons of dealer financing
- Potential dealer markup that increases your APR. This can add hundreds or thousands over the life of the loan.
- Risk of yo-yo financing or spot delivery issues if financing isn’t finalized at the time of the sale.
- Add-on products and pack fees may be rolled into the loan, raising total cost.
Pros of outside financing (credit union)
- You can get a firm preapproval rate (your “buying power”) to use as a negotiating lever. Preapproval helps you separate vehicle price negotiation from financing.
- You go into the buying process knowing your complete purchasing power, reducing the pressure to make your decision solely based on promotional availability.
- Lower, transparent rates — credit unions often offer very competitive rates to their members.
Cons of outside financing
- It can add a small step to the process (apply, get a commitment, then finalize purchase), though many preapprovals are generally quick.
What the ad “fine print” usually hides — real examples
I sampled current dealer ads and disclosures; common patterns I found:
- “For qualified buyers” / “Not all buyers will qualify” — standard language in 0% APR ads and low-rate offers. If you don’t qualify, the rate can jump.
- Payment per $1,000 financed — many APR disclosures state a monthly payment per $1,000 financed as a shorthand (e.g., “72 months at 0% APR: 72 monthly payments of $13.89 per $1,000 financed”). This hides the total interest difference from other APRs.
- “Must finance with dealer/captive to get rebate” — dealers may force a choice: either take a low-APR program or take a cash rebate, not both. That trade-off can make dealer financing look better than it is if you don’t run the totals.
How to get the best deal: step-by-step checklist
- Get preapproved before you shop — get the rate and term in writing from a credit union. Preapproval gives you a clean comparison point.
- Negotiate vehicle price first — not the monthly payment — tie the sale to total purchase price (or out-the-door price). Salespeople who only discuss monthly payments may be stretching the term or adding fees.
- Ask for the lender's “buy rate” / disclose the APR — request the exact APR and the lender’s name. The Equal on-discriminatory pricing; excessive unexplained markups can be illegal.
- Run the math: total interest paid — convert offers to total dollars paid (principal + interest). Compare offers at the same term. Also, compare by monthly payment-per-$1,000 financed if an ad uses that shorthand (it’s easy to misuse that number).
- Be wary of spot deliveries — don’t accept a spot delivery that leaves financing “pending.” Get a final signed finance contract before you leave the lot. If offered a spot delivery, get the lender’s approval in writing.
- Decline add-ons you don’t want — insist on an itemized F&I worksheet and decline extras you don’t want. If you decide you want an add-on later, you can often buy it separately.
- Ask about rebates vs low APR — run the numbers: sometimes taking a rebate and using a low-rate outside loan gives a better net cost than accepting a captive 0% APR that requires you to forfeit a large rebate.
- Consider short loan terms — shorter terms (36–48 months) minimize interest cost and reduce upside for markups hidden by long terms.
FAQs
Q: Should I finance at the dealership or get a credit union loan?
A: Get preapproved first. Dealer financing can sometimes be convenient and may include special manufacturer deals, but a preapproval gives you solid buying power and often lower APRs.
Q: What is yo-yo financing, and how do I avoid it?
A: Yo-yo financing happens when a dealer lets you drive away before the loan is finalized and later tries to change terms. Avoid it by asking for written final loan approval and not accepting spot delivery without a signed contract.
Q: Are dealer add-ons worth financing?
A: Some add-ons (GAP for high-risk loans, certain warranties) may make sense, but many are overpriced and could be purchased through the credit union sometimes for less. Only finance add-ons you truly value and can afford; otherwise, decline and buy later if needed.
Closing summary: why the preapproval wins
Dealership financing may look attractive at first glance, but once you dig into the fine print, you see the risks: dealer markups, conditional rebates, add-on fees, and spot delivery tactics. In contrast, a credit union preapproval gives you a firm rate, transparent terms, and negotiation leverage before you ever set foot on the lot.
The end result?
- You protect yourself from surprise markups.
- You negotiate the car price with confidence.
- You often save hundreds — sometimes thousands — over the life of the loan.
That’s why the smartest move isn’t just to shop for the right car — it’s to start with your credit union preapproval and make the dealer compete for your business.